Gosha Rubchinskiy has revealed an official lookbook and film created backstage for his Fall/Winter 2016-2017 ‘СПАСИ И СОХРАНИ (Save and Protect)’ collection, inspired by Russia’s early ’90s punk scene.
Moving away from the sportswear theme that defined Spring/Summer 2016, Rubchinskiy continued to draw inspiration from youth culture. The overall aesthetic was less Soviet-era sportswear and more industrial army surplus. Moving away from athletic gear and referencing perhaps something more veraciously ‘street’, punk and skinhead culture.
Plaid shirts with exaggerated cuffs are tucked into ill fitting belts tied too tight, baggy pants hoiked too high are held up with suspenders and wallet chains are present with the denim pieces. Lightly oversize leather and shearling jackets were stand out pieces as well as the double sleeved sweatshirts and tees with the commonplace Russian wording in a gothic font.
The refreshed style of fonts were influenced by punks from the 1990s, not the 1970s. Once again a period of time which the Russian designer has lived with Rubchinskiy a teenager during those days. Sweatpants remained from past seasons and were paired with classic Reebok sneaker silhouettes replacing the Vans from the summer collection.
Rubchinskiy has also released the new he will be presenting his SS17 collection at Florence’s biannual menswear trade show Pitti Uomo in June. In an interview with The Business of Fashion, Rubchinskiy stated: “A Russian designer showing streetwear at Pitti – that’s definitely something people don’t expect to see”. Along with the show, the designer, who is also a photographer and filmmaker, will be creating a new film and book.