Dion Lee is a reference for sensual brands. For his autumn/winter 2023 collection, the Australian designer is offering the public a second skin collection.
The clubwear designer unveiled his newest line on Friday night in Manhattan as part of this year’s New York Fashion Week, while also sharing his sources of inspiration, which included “snake, serpent, scale, reptile, shedding, unravelling, ouroboros, etc“.
He began this artistic display by repeating reptilian details: reptile skins were etched onto leather boots and huge accessories, while diamond fittings with ‘scale eyelets’ spiced up vintage harnesses and surface treatments.
Japanese shibori dye took on a serpentine look, while black, white and pink scale-like textures added dimension to fitted tops, collared coats and skinny trousers. He also used crushed rubber and distressed ball chains to apply to silk georgette dresses.
Everything was organised and presented in a way that creates a visually captivating collection. Priority was given to outerwear, with a few translucent, blown-up puffer jackets revealing the wearers’ inner layers. Sharp shoulders were crafted into leather coats, while opaque puffers with corset-like cuts and low-waisted slacks provided subtle contrast.
Overall, the layering of the collection, or lack thereof, proved essential in tracing the development of its second skin. The collection’s use of horizontal stacks of boning to produce drape and structure was an unusual feature.
With this special method, Lee showed off his mastery of materialisation and his capacity to combine seemingly unrelated parts into wearable and gorgeous clothing.
#Peace.Love.DionLeeNewYorkFashionWeek2023
