Labrum London delivered a spectacular show at London Fashion Week 2024, showcasing its Ready-to-Wear Fall 2024 collection, helmed by Foday Dumbuya.
Foday Dumbuya, born in Sierra Leone and raised in Cyprus and London, is a menswear designer and creative director known for his brand LABRUM London, blending traditional techniques with classic British tailoring to create unique and culturally infused styles.
Foday’s ascent through the ranks of show venues reflects a trajectory destined for the fashion summit. From the vibrant Brixton Village to the opulent Four Seasons Hotel and now gracing the prestigious Tate Britain, Dumbuya meticulously curates the backdrop for his collections, showcasing an equal penchant for fashion as an educational medium. The Tate, he asserts, serves as the perfect institution to narrate the compelling story of migration’s historical tapestry.
Dumbuya’s signature mantra of ‘British tailoring; West African flair’ took on a renewed focus in his latest Labrum Fall/Winter 2024 collection, a thematic exploration of borders for the fall season. Expressing his commitment to celebrating immigrants and their enriching contributions to society, Dumbuya initiated a two-part series titled ‘Designed by an Immigrant.’
The first installment delved into the clothing worn during migration journeys, featuring vessels balanced on heads, caftans, and capes as symbols of protection.
The runway showcased an arresting visual play, with custom hats woven from raffia by British milliner Lucy Barlow, representing vessels, and dapper men sporting suitcases adorned with exuberant fabrics matching their two-piece suits.
Beyond the visual spectacle, the suitcases carried deeper significance amid a backdrop of controversial government relocation policies dominating the news cycle.
Dumbuya’s talent lies not only in cultural commentary but also in crafting smart silhouettes that resonate with a generation valuing both style and comfort. Tailored suits with draped jackets seamlessly paired with slouchy pants and adidas sneakers, while bombers featured stiff collars and wide ribbed trims, harmoniously matched with wide-leg pants.
The casting choices were equally inspired, with England and Saracens rugby player Maro Itoje opening the show. Hailing from a Nigerian immigrant family, Itoje not only epitomized the Labrum aesthetic in a collarless suit adorned with silk prints of a British passport and visa stickers but also aligned with Dumbuya’s commitment to education, spearheading an initiative in Lagos.
Intriguingly, Labrum’s philosophy revolves around the concept of patience. Dumbuya envisions Labrum as a 50-year plan, aiming to leave a lasting legacy. He desires that, decades from now, a child in London or Sierra Leone will find inspiration, thinking, “I resemble him; there’s a chance I could be like him, or even surpass him.”
Dumbuya’s focus extends beyond the present, revealing a visionary approach that transcends current trends and seeks to inspire future generations.
#Peace.Love.Labrum
