Jason Wu‘s Autumn/Winter 2023 show took place in the legendary Guggenheim Museum for New York Fashion Week. For the occasion, the models paraded on a circular runway decorated with magnificent floral compositions.
This setting perfectly matches the spirit of the collection, which is both calm and captivating, while maintaining the brand’s great elegance.
He was also open to the accent Wu was trying to convey. In the style of a museum where visitors take their time to absorb what they see, the creator made use of the theater’s circular space to enable the mannequins to slowly encircle the crowd.
The performance gave the guests a chance to notice Wu’s subtle change in direction.
Speaking about the collection, Wu says, “This season, I was captivated by the works of 20th century artist Karl Blossfeldt. His botanical photography had a fragility and strength that is contrasted with a moodiness which prompted me into a cinematic direction. I wanted to push the brands code of confident yet refined elegance with menswear inspired deconstructed tailoring, trimmed with feminine chiffon and lace details”.
Wu focused on stringy gowns, a trend that was also present on other runways this season. Nevertheless, his versions were substantial and tube-like, giving some outfits a positively industrial feel.
None about these screamed the 1920s. Wu is an expert at dressing women, and he continued to do so with outfits like a red power jacket over a sheer skirt and stunning evening gowns paired with oversized coats.
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