He joined the label in 2016 and Wednesday night was the first show for his first full-menswear collection. Anthony Vaccarello is an Italian-Belgian fashion designer and the current creative director at Saint Laurent. For the occasion, after two years of female fashion, he organized the défilé in New York and not in Paris, just to change, as he admitted.
At New Jersey’s Liberty State Park, away from the traditional schedule, 59 men and 10 women walked on a wet-look marble catwalk. He wanted to surprise and he succeeded. At the end of the show, he ended up with male models covered with glitters on their bare chests, creating a perfect, magic match to the Manhattan night skyline behind.
Ten years after the death of Yves Saint Laurent, the brand he founded remains an imposing presence on the fashion landscape, and thanks to figures such as Vacarrello the success is safe. Black shades were the main protagonists, and a kind of African style was kept in hoodies, saharienne jackets, and a glitter touch in sequin trousers used for the final part.
The after party, held on a boat, paid homage to the 1978 launch party for YSL’s Opium perfume, not to forget the founder and to respect his style, or even better, be inspired by it.
Of the 10 women on the catwalk, including Kaia Gerber and Binx Walton, their role was to show how menswear can fit women and vice versa. Many famous faces were present at the front row of the show, Kate Moss just to mention one.
One more last detail: Vaccarello decided to take editors to New York and covered their expenses, contributing to the tradition of Saint Laurent.